Steven&co - Estonian tales

Today marks another of these special days for the Estonians. Not an official holiday, but celebrated everywhere, "vastlapäev" marks the demise of winter and the end of the cold days. Or rather, should mark that - it has been snowing non-stop and I wouldn't particularly like to say that -8 is a comfortable temperature.

The tradition comes from the countryside, where winters were long, dark and full of nothing to do. The February snow, "higher temperatures" and brighter days were very welcome after weeks of gloomy weather, and vastlapäev was a day to look forward to, particularly for the children who could start playing outside a bit more often again.

The main event on vastlapäev nowadays is the eating of “vastlakukkel”, a piece of pastry that is best compared with a dryer version of a “boule de Berlin”, but filled with whipped cream instead of with vanilla pudding. These pastries are only available here around vastlapäev, and sold out within hours. More traditionally is going down a hill by sledge (or by all means possible or impossible, actually). The one that slides the furthest is considered to have the best harvest in the coming season, which of course is celebrated with liberal servings of vodka.

Even more traditional (but less to my taste) is eating pea soup with "feet and ears" (of the pigsy kind), and making toys out of pig bones and a piece of string.

Hoping for warmer days made me think back of Gent, and of how, by the end of March, the street cafés will start to open again. How it will actually be too chilly to fully enjoy it, and how the sun sinks behind the railway bridge next to the station. How we went home after sunset, looking forward for summer and planning what we would do then, knowing that life was returning to the city again... I miss these things a lot. The comfort of sitting and experiencing the city with friends, without talking too much, just thinking the same thoughts.

Being in Estonia is a fantastic experience, but abroad is still abroad... So guys, when the street cafés are open, and the sun is still out around six: treat yourself to a nice cool Duvel (or pea soup, or white Martini, whatever fashion will rule this year), and greet the city in my name!